I've traveled to more than 70 countries, and I can say without hesitation that the Dolomites are the most beautiful place I have ever seen. Nothing prepared me for the sheer drama of those limestone peaks rising above meadows so green they almost look painted. We based ourselves in Ortisei in the Val Gardena, and from the moment we arrived, I understood why people return here year after year.
Getting There
We flew into Venice, rented a car, and drove north through Verona before climbing into the mountains. The drive itself is part of the experience — the landscape shifts gradually from the Veneto plains to the foothills and then, suddenly, the Dolomites appear. Plan for about three hours from Venice to Ortisei, longer if you stop (and you will want to stop).
Sanaz's tip: Rent a car — the Dolomites are best explored by road. The mountain passes are some of the most scenic drives in Europe.
Where We Stayed: Gardena Grödnerhof
We stayed at the Gardena Grödnerhof in Ortisei, a five-star hotel that exceeded every expectation. The property sits right in the village center with views of the surrounding peaks from nearly every room. The spa is exceptional — exactly what you need after a day of hiking or e-biking through the mountains. But the real revelation was dinner. The hotel's restaurant holds a Michelin star, and the meal we had there was one of the finest of our entire trip to Italy. The tasting menu showcased local ingredients — mountain cheeses, wild herbs, venison — prepared with extraordinary skill.
Sanaz's tip: Book the tasting menu at least a day in advance. It fills up quickly, especially in peak summer season.
Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)
The Alpe di Siusi is Europe's largest high-altitude alpine meadow, and it is every bit as spectacular as the photographs suggest. We took the cable car up from Ortisei and spent a full day exploring on e-bikes, which are available to rent at the top. The combination of the vast green plateau, the wildflowers, and the jagged Dolomite peaks in every direction is simply unlike anything else I have experienced. My children still talk about it.
Sanaz's tip: Go early — the meadow gets busy by midday in summer. The morning light on the peaks is also extraordinary.
Lago di Braies
No Dolomites trip is complete without a visit to Lago di Braies, the emerald lake that has become one of the most photographed spots in Italy. The color of the water is genuinely that vivid in person — a deep turquoise-green that seems almost impossible. We rented a rowboat and spent an hour on the water surrounded by the peaks. Arrive before 8am or after 5pm to avoid the crowds.
Sanaz's tip: Arrive very early or late afternoon. The parking lot fills completely by 9am in summer and cars are turned away.
Final Thoughts
The Dolomites deserve far more than a day trip or a quick stopover. We spent four nights and it still felt too short. If you are planning a northern Italy itinerary, I would strongly encourage you to build your trip around the Dolomites rather than treating them as an add-on. Pair them with Verona for a perfect week — two nights in Verona, four in the mountains. You will come home changed.
Sanaz's tip: Four nights is the minimum to do the Dolomites justice. Three full days gives you Alpe di Siusi, Lago di Braies, and time to simply wander.
Where to Eat
From a Michelin-starred dinner to homemade pasta at a mountain refugio — the Dolomites deliver at every level.
Gardena Grödnerhof Restaurant (Michelin Star)
Michelin-starred tasting menuThe Michelin-starred restaurant at our hotel was one of the finest meals of our entire Italian trip. The tasting menu showcases local mountain ingredients — wild herbs, aged cheeses, venison — with extraordinary technique.
Mountain Rifugios on Alpe di Siusi
Authentic mountain lunchThe rifugios (mountain huts) scattered across the Alpe di Siusi serve simple, hearty mountain food — speck, polenta, goulash, apple strudel. Stop at whichever one you pass. They are all good.